Trendy Hors d'Oeuvres

Little is more telling about food trends than hors d'oeuvres. That's where banquet chefs let their creativity run wild, serving up micro-meals that will please the most exacting of gourmands.

To find out what's hot in reception fare -- and to garner inspiration for menu-planning -- we sampled a bevy of new creations by Tarrytown, N.Y.-based Abigail Kirsch, Catering Relationships, one of the region's top caterers.

In addition, two New York City event planners joined the table to offer their expert opinions. Jaclyn Bernstein, president and partner of Empire Force Events, has worked in the industry for more than 20 years, planning events for heavy hitters such as American Express and Sony. Dana Lowenfish, vice president of Global Events Group/Paint The Town Red, has planned events for 16 years, for clients such as Foot Locker and the Toy Industry Foundation.

After taste-testing 15 delicious courses, this is what we found.


Tomato Basil Hand Pies Trend: Gastropub/comfort food

At first glance: Featuring house-made peppered ricotta, micro basil and sherry-vinegar syrup, this is an upscale lasagna contained within a pastry shell -- and it's small enough to consume in one bite.

Tasting notes: For a small hors d'oeuvre, it's very hearty, with the roasted tomatoes coming through most strongly.

From the panel: "There's a lot of great flavors in here, but the pastry is still very light." – Jaclyn Bernstein


Lobster Two WaysTrend: American regional

At first glance: Lobster corn dogs are garnished with mango-horseradish mustard, alongside lobster rolls with tarragon, lemon zest and micro cilantro. This is a lot of food: full-size lobster rolls next to lobster lollipops. They would be ideal for a reception that is not followed by dinner.

Tasting notes: In the lobster corn dog, the corn coating works surprisingly well with the lobster, and the stick makes it a cinch to eat. The lobster roll is simpler and more traditional, but fresh ingredients make it delightful.

From the panel: "I wouldn't put two hors d'oeuvres on the same tray. If people wanted both, they wouldn't be able to grab them both easily -- unless they were somewhat smaller." – J.B.

"I liked the presentation of two, but it's a good point. How would you hold both?" – Dana Lowenfish

Pass With Class

 

 

Alison Awerbuch, executive vice pre­sident and partner of Abigail Kirsch, Catering Relationships (914-631-3030; abigailkirsch.com), offers these additional tips for selecting butlered hors d'oeuvres.

Avoid dishes. Nibbles set on individual spoons, shot glasses, etc., might look nice, but it leaves attendees holding empty vessels. In such cases, send a waiter behind to collect the serving items.

Take a chance. Try meats beyond chicken and beef, recipes that are too decadent for a full plate or spices that might not suit everyone's palate.

Divide up the time. For the first third of a reception, serve smaller, lighter hors d'oeuvres. For the second third, serve larger and heavier ones. In the final third, butler the dessert. Attendees will feel as though they have had an entire meal.  J.V.

Peking Duck StrawsTrend: Creative Asian

At first glance: These prove that presentation is as important as taste, as you have sharp stalks sprouting out from a pile of black sesame seeds. The bright colors on the tips also are sesame seeds, flavored with curry, wasabi and plum. They're easy to pick up and eat with one hand.

Tasting notes: The straws are crispy, moist and tasty, if a bit salty, and the sesame seeds, especially the plum ones, balance the flavors.

From the panel: "It's fried but very light. And I love the colors."– D.L.


Waves and FoamTrend: Petite but powerful

At first glance: Gorgonzola foam and port wine fig chutney are served on a wispy cracker. This one is tiny, with minuscule dollops of powerful flavors. Because of its small size, it would be ideal for a diet-conscious crowd.

Tasting notes: The chutney provides a burst of sweetness, and the Gorgonzola lingers pleasantly on the tongue. It's hard not to eat the whole tray.

From the panel: "In some hors d'oeuvres there's too much Gorgonzola, but this is just the right amount, and it's still light." – D.L.


Duo of GranitasTrend: Frozen cocktails

At first glance: The mojito granita is tart mint- rum ice set in a lime wedge; Limoncello granita is a refreshing ginger-Limoncello ice served in a lemon wedge. Abigail Kirsch serves them as an intermezzo (palate cleanser) between dinner and dessert, even at plated meals.

Tasting notes: The ices aren't too sweet, and they're light on the alcohol.

From the panel: "It's colorful, and it's a talking piece." – D.L.


Seafood Fortune Cookies Trend: Creative Asian

At first glance: These crispy shrimp and crab dumplings are dressed with Thai chili-coconut sauce and piled high atop cellophane noodles. It's hard to pick one out without accidentally touching its neighbors.

Tasting notes: The crispy dough bursts open, letting out a mouthful of hot seafood swimming in curry.

From the panel: "Some people don't like curry, but it wasn't too strong." – J.B.

"Extremely tasty. The curry and coconut balanced each other out, and it was not so fishy." – D.L.

Mix It Up

Innovative recipes for drinks made with herbs and vegetables can be found in "Kitchen Cocktails," online at mcmag.com/webexclusives.

 

Bacon and Egg SandwichTrend: Organic

At first glance: These haute one-bite sandwiches hold organic egg salad on buttery brioche rounds. They sit on nitrate-free bacon bits, and on top are whipped bacon fat and crispy fragments of yet more bacon.

Tasting notes: Although the bacon is everywhere, it doesn't overpower these tasty treats.

From the panel: "It's a great presentation. At a corporate breakfast, you could butler these." – J.B.


Tiny Sirloin Patty Melts Trend: Gastropub/comfort food

At first glance: These sliders have the advantage of being topped with caramelized onion jam, tomato relish and cheddar, served on homemade miniature English muffins. The fried onions underneath add flavor. The bun and patty are slim enough to keep attendees from making a mess.

Tasting notes: The patty melt takes two bites to eat, but the skewer keeps it doable. It's intensely flavorful yet light.

From the panel: "I like the homemade roll. It looks a little fancier than a typical roll." – D.L.


Lamb Tagine TurnoversTrend: Moroccan invasion

At first glance: Picture tiny decorative pillows, arranged on a clear window above a bed of Moroccan spices, golden raisins and almonds, with cucumber mint raita.

Tasting notes: They might be small, but the lamb flavor shines through with great gusto.

From the panel: "It was nice that it was small. It was hearty, and it didn't need to be any bigger." – D.L.

Asparagus Salume Pesto Tower Trend: Spanish flavors

At first glance: Wrapping the cured meat and bird's-nest pastry around an asparagus stalk is creative. Again, the serving tray is repurposed: It's a wooden wine rack.

Tasting notes: Texturally, this was a success; taste-wise, it might turn off people who don't like cured meats.

From the panel: "That one had a lot of zing. It was very tasty, but it had a strong aftertaste." – J.B.

"The salume was very salty. The crunch of the pastry was interesting, sort of noodle-like." – D.L.


Wasabi Ginger Yellowfin Tuna RollsTrend: Low-carb

At first glance: This is the low-carb dream of fresh tuna wrapped in jicama, with matchsticks of pickled mango, cucumber, carrots and peppers. The crispy wrap visually resembles the rice paper used to make Vietnamese spring rolls. The futuristic glass serving tube was designed to hold tea candles.

Tasting notes: The rolls are crunchy and mild, almost like a salad.

From the panel: "When I heard ‘wasabi,' I got nervous. But it's a very light touch." – J.B.


Pumpkin Pie Soup Trend: Locally sourced

At first glance: The soup, made of pumpkins and butternut squash from the Hudson Valley, is served in shot glasses nestled in tea-light holders. Topped with cider foam, some are garnished with cranberry dust and spiced pumpkin seeds, the others with sage oil.

Tasting notes: The soup is not too creamy, and the flavor is nicely balanced between sweet and savory. The version with the sage oil is transcendent.

From the panel: "Who doesn't want to drink pie?" – J.B.

"I liked the tiny little crunch of the pumpkin seed." – D.L.

Portobello Mushroom Steak FriesTrend: Locally sourced

At first glance: This is Abigail Kirsch's signature hors d'oeuvre, a menu item since its debut 12 years ago. They're served on top of a Parmesan-basil crust, with a creamy balsamic aioli dipping sauce on the side.

Tasting notes: The fry is light, crispy, delicate; the aioli is piquant. It doesn't taste like a mushroom, more like the heavenly flavors of Parmesan and fine balsamic vinegar.

From the panel: "I don't even like mushrooms, but I'd definitely put it on the menu." – J.B.

Duo of Scotch Trend: Experimental desserts

At first glance: Warm butterscotch beignets with cranberry-caramel dipping sauce are accompanied by glasses of warm, sweetened Scotch whisky. Abigail Kirsch often butlers these desserts even at a sit-down dinner, to get people up and mingling sooner.

Tasting notes: Though the dessert seems to have been invented out of the double entendre of "scotch," it works. A mouthful of warm beignet, swimming in syrupy, creamy Scotch, is pure heaven.

From the panel: "This is an excellent dessert for a male crowd." – D.L.


Truffled CherriesTrend: Simple sweets

At first glance: Cherries are much easier to eat than strawberries -- the more common chocolate-covered fruit -- because of their longer stem and smaller size. These are dipped in chocolate ganache with assorted toppings: pistachio pieces, chocolate shavings and coconut flakes.

Tasting notes: Simply mouthwatering.

From the panel: "Oh, it's great! The presentation makes it taste even better." – J.B.

"Excellent!"  – D.L.